Wine Woman & Song

Wine writing by Juel Mahoney, WSET Diploma, 2007 to 2022

Donnafugata Dress Code Black

The skills for making handmade lace are nearly all replaced by the factory. Except in Sicily. Donnafugata Mille e una Notte is a red wine from Contessa Entellina DOC that has a tight grip on its joyous Nero d’Avola fruit like a short, sharp slap from a woman in mourning. Unashamed Italian austerity, with deep balsamic herbs and black-lace tannins with round Nero d’Avola berries saved from complete voluptuousness by cool harvesting the grapes in the middle of the night. If your idea of black is easy-wearing, wash n’ go then you may not be ready for the young widow with eyes of coal dressed in black lace; this is a traditional wine, yet made in a highly technological way, that seethes tension and speaks the vocabulary of the volcano. Brava.

 

Tasted at London International Wine Fair, 18 May at Nero d’Avola Qualita masterclass.

Image: Michael Roberts

Juel Mahoney is a writer who worked in London’s fine wine trade at Jeroboams, Bibendum and Bottle Apostle, and holds the WSET Diploma. This piece is part of the Wine Woman & Song archive, 2007 to 2022. More about Juel Mahoney.

6 responses

  1. Tim Johns avatar

    "Widow with eyes of coal" beautifully evocative metaphor for a tasting note. http://t.co/VyMSKRu via @winewomansong

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  2. Mauro Segatta avatar

    Latest blog. Compelled to write about Donnafugata Mille e una Notte Sicily: Dress Code Black. http://goo.gl/4iwmy via @winewomansong

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  3. Mauro Segatta avatar

    Blogged. Dress Code Black: Donnafugata Mille e una Notte – dark days indeed http://goo.gl/YqXlU via @winewomansong

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  4. [v]intuition avatar

    @winewomansong Re. speaking the vocabulary of the volcano http://bit.ly/lO9FM9 | I like, and enjoy, your evolving imagery, Juel.

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  5. Sicilia Report: Nero d’Avola Qualità | vinissima

    […] An immediately striking and impressive personality, which seduced me enough to write a review on http://winewomansong.co.uk. This is 90% Nero d’Avola with a sprinkling of indigenous varieties from near Trapani. It is […]

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  6. Tyrone avatar
    Tyrone

    Love good Nero d’Avola & love Juel Mahoney @winewomansong 's descripton of this one… http://t.co/EiR8WQdj

    Like